The Curly Girl Method has been a game-changer for millions of women seeking to enhance their natural curls and tame frizz. This hair care formula originated from Lorraine Massey’s book, ‘Curly Girl: The Handbook’, which debuted twenty years ago. Despite the passage of time, the method remains just as popular today, with numerous Facebook groups and products dedicated solely to its principles.
For those looking to get started with this approach, this post aims to provide a comprehensive guide, covering everything you need to know to begin your Curly Girl journey.
What is the Curly Girl Method?
The Curly Girl Method is a comprehensive approach to achieving perfectly moisturised, defined, and bouncy curls. At its core lies the replacement of traditional shampoo with a co-wash, along with the consistent use of deep conditioners and styling products. This method also emphasizes air drying as the sole means of drying hair, rejecting the use of heat tools such as irons and curling tongs. A breakdown of what the Curly Girl Method suggests can be seen in the table below.
The approach was specifically designed to accentuate one’s natural curl pattern, a quality many individuals fail to recognize their hair possesses. Prior to discovering the method, I too thought my hair was simply frizzy until reading The Curly Girl: The Handbook! As author Lorraine Massey famously notes, ‘frizz is just a curl waiting to happen,’ and all it requires is adequate moisture.
This perspective resonates with the core message of the handbook, which highlights that learning to love and care for one’s curls can lead to a lifetime of happiness.
The Original Curly Girl Handbook
To kick-start your journey with the Curly Girl (CG) method, this post will walk you through the fundamental steps. While these basics will give you a solid foundation to work from, I highly recommend supplementing your learning by investing in a personal copy of The Curly Girl Handbook. For many, this comprehensive guide has become an indispensable resource for navigating the world of curly hair care – and it’s one that I personally rely on as my trusted ‘hair bible’.
How to Follow the Curly Girl Method
Determine Your Hair Type and Porosity
Understanding your hair type and porosity is crucial before embarking on the Curly Girl Method. This knowledge will enable you to select the most suitable products for your locks, which will be essential throughout the process. I’ve developed a comprehensive guide that helps determine your hair porosity, complete with a quiz to simplify the process.
When it comes to identifying your curl type, the widely recognized Andre Walker’s Curl Type Classification system is commonly used.
This framework categorizes hair into four primary types: straight, wavy, curly, and kinky/coily. Each type is further sub-divided based on the tightness of the curl. Visual aids like the image below can aid in determining your hair type.
Once you have a solid grasp of both your hair type and porosity level, you’ll be better equipped to choose products and oils that cater specifically to your hair’s needs.
As we move forward with the Curly Girl Method, it’s essential to discontinue using shampoos and other products containing sulfates, alcohol, fragrance, or non-water-soluble silicones.
While I’m currently working on a comprehensive guide highlighting CG-approved products suitable for various hair types and porosity levels, I’ll provide recommendations later in this post. For now, let’s focus on the steps to follow.
Step 0 – The Final Wash
The Curly Girl Method commences with the ‘final wash’ stage, which is a crucial step in removing product buildup and silicones from your hair. To perform this final wash, apply a clarifying shampoo to wet hair and proceed with regular shampooing. This marks the last time you’ll use sulfates on your hair, except for the initial wash when starting the CG method.
If you reside in an area with hard water, like myself, living in the UK, you may require a clarifying wash every four weeks to combat mineral buildup. In fact, silicon usage also necessitates an occasional clarifying wash. For guidance on selecting the best shampoos for your final wash, particularly if you live in a hard water area, I recommend reviewing my guide on the topic.
You may find it necessary to repeat this step at least once monthly to purge mineral buildup and accumulated dirt and oil. This initial stage, Step 0, effectively ‘resets’ your hair, preparing it for your new haircare routine while promoting natural shine and growth. For a comprehensive understanding of clarifying curly hair, refer to my dedicated post on the subject.
Step 1 – Sulphate Free Shampoo or Co Wash
To begin, apply a generous amount of sulfate-free shampoo, cleansing conditioner, or co-wash to your wet locks, working it into your scalp and hair with gentle massaging motions. This crucial step not only cleanses the hair but also stimulates blood flow to the follicles, fortifying the roots and lifting away excess oil and sweat from the scalp. When rinsing, ensure you’re targeting just the roots – there’s no need to burden the ends with harsh cleansing agents.
Instead, allow the product to naturally travel down the shaft as it flows out with the water. This thoughtful approach helps preserve the hair’s natural moisture barrier. For curly-haired individuals, maintaining optimal hydration is paramount for defined curls and reduced frizz. As such, it’s recommended to wash your hair once a week at most, with coily or kinky-haired folks only needing to indulge in this ritual every two weeks.
When it comes time to rinse, opt for cool water to seal the cuticle and minimize frizz – especially crucial for high-porosity strands.
Step 2 – Silicone Free Conditioner
Once you’ve applied a silicone-free conditioner to your hair, gently squeeze out any excess water before distributing the product evenly throughout your locks from roots to tips. Make sure your hair is fully saturated and coated with the conditioner. If needed, use a wide-tooth comb to detangle any knots, working from the ends up and only when your hair is soaking wet and covered in conditioner. This will help prevent breakage or pulling.
To get the most out of your conditioner, try the ‘squish to condish’ method. Place the conditioner in your palms and squish it into your curls, which helps seal more moisture into your hair. From now on, always check the ingredient lists of your conditioners to ensure they only contain water-soluble silicones. You may also want to invest in a leave-in conditioner to add extra moisture, even if you don’t plan to use it as part of your routine.
If you have high porosity hair, leaving some conditioner on your hair can help seal in moisture. The LOC method is another technique worth exploring. This stands for leave-in conditioner (L), oil (O), and cream (C), which are the order in which you should apply these products. The LOC method is particularly beneficial for high porosity hair, as it helps seal the gaps in the hair shaft.
If you have high porosity hair, consider applying your oils, creams, or butters after your conditioner to reap the benefits.
Step 3 – Apply Styling Products to wet hair before drying
To achieve optimal results with styling products, it’s crucial to apply them to hair that’s thoroughly saturated with water before drying. In fact, make sure your locks are sopping wet before applying the product. I find it convenient to take my styling cream into the shower with me and apply it while my hair is still dripping wet. If you wait until after getting out of the shower when your hair has started air-drying, the effectiveness of the product will be significantly diminished.
By sealing in moisture before drying begins, you can prevent frizz from forming due to dry hair seeking moisture from the air. The right styling product for your tresses could be a cream, mousse, or gel, and there are various methods to apply it – raking, scrunching, or glazing. Once applied, take some time to shape your curls by either forming curl clumps for more defined looks or scrunching them upwards for looser, wavier styles.
Step 4 – Air dry
When it comes to drying your hair, it’s essential to steer clear of heat tools like hair dryers, flat irons, and curling tongs. Similarly, refrain from using regular towels, as their harsh fibers can cause damage and dryness. Instead, opt for a microfibre towel or a cotton t-shirt to gently absorb excess moisture. To preserve your curls’ integrity, try to minimize handling your hair while it’s drying, as this can lead to frizz and unwanted texture changes.
A crunchy cast may develop on your curls due to styling products, but don’t worry until the hair is completely dry. For an added boost, consider trying hair plopping: simply place your head upside down, allowing your curls to fall into a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt for 30 minutes to facilitate absorption. If you’re in a pinch and need to speed up drying, you can use a blow dryer with a diffuser on low heat; however, it’s best avoided if possible.
Step 5 – Scrunch Out Soft Defined Curls
While not explicitly mentioned in the original Curly Girl methodology, I’ve discovered that the hair gel can leave my locks feeling stiff and crunchy when fully dry. To combat this, I employ a simple yet effective technique: gentle scrunching with a small amount of hair oil or serum. For an added bonus, you can substitute a dry cotton t-shirt or a silk/satin scarf for a more textured approach.
By carefully scrunching your curls once they’ve dried, you’ll find that the stiffness dissipates, replaced by a softer, more natural-looking texture.
Step 6 – Maintaining Your Curls
While it’s impossible to repair split ends through moisturizing alone, trimming them regularly can be an effective way to maintain the health of your locks. As you’ve made the smart decision to ditch heat styling tools and harsh chemicals, your hair will have the opportunity to grow back stronger and healthier. To further minimize damage while you sleep, consider investing in a silk or satin pillowcase.
These gentle materials reduce friction on your hair, leading to fewer frizz-causing tangles when you wake up. In my experience, a silk pillowcase is even more beneficial than a regular cotton one for preserving the integrity of your hair.
Curly Girl Method Approved Products
While the featured products are designed to cater to a wide range of curl patterns, from loose natural waves to tighter spirals, their versatility makes them an excellent choice for anyone with natural texture. Whether you have tight coils or looser, more flowing curls, these recommendations offer a tailored solution to enhance your unique texture.
Step 1 – Sulfate Free Shampoo / Co Wash
The Curly Girl Method emphasizes the importance of avoiding lather when cleansing your locks. In the past, I’ve oscillated between using As I Am’s Coconut Co Wash and OGX shampoo. With a cowash, it’s crucial to thoroughly scrub the product into your hair and scalp to achieve proper cleanliness. However, I discovered that over time this approach didn’t yield the desired results, which is why I opted to combine my cowash routine with a sulphate-free shampoo.
As always, it’s essential to experiment and find the perfect combination that works best for your unique hair type.
Step 2 – Conditioner which is Curly Girl Method Approved
The Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Conditioning Curl/Style Milk stands out as an exceptional leave-in conditioner, boasting a rich blend of coconut oil and shea butter that deeply hydrates and shields the hair from damage and breakage. Its nourishing properties also help to smooth frizz and cultivate healthy, resilient curls. For me, this product has become a go-to solution.
If I’m being entirely honest, though, my current affinity lies with the Garner Ultimate Blends No Rinse Conditioner – a full review of which can be found in the accompanying video below. As you continue to work through your hair care routine, consider incorporating a wide tooth comb to gently tease out any knots or tangles. Applying this step after conditioner application allows for a more meticulous and damage-free detangling process.
Step 3 – Styling Products which are Curly Girl Method Approved
The Kinky Curly styling gel boasts remarkable transformative powers, effortlessly taming thick, dry, frizzy locks into luscious spirals and waves. Its impressive moisture-locking properties eliminate frizz, resulting in bouncy, defined curls that exude health and vitality. The formula’s natural blend of horsetail, chamomile, nettle, aloe vera, and marshmallow not only nourishes but also enhances the overall well-being of your hair.
While I have an affinity for this product, my current go-to styling solution is actually the Umberto Gianni Curl Jelly, which has won me over with its impressive performance.
Step 4 – Drying
When it comes to drying your hair, it’s crucial to avoid using regular towels, as they can cause friction and lead to frizz. Instead, consider investing in a microfibre towel or head cap, which will help speed up the drying process while keeping your hair intact. I personally swear by my adorable bear-shaped head cap, which not only keeps my locks in place but also prevents me from touching them while they’re still damp.
This gentle approach can significantly reduce frizz and even enhance natural curl patterns. If you’re in a hurry, using a diffuser attachment with your blow dryer can help minimize damage, especially when paired with low heat settings. However, it’s essential to note that the curly girl method generally advises against using heat altogether.
Step 6 – Maintenance
For those looking to maintain their hair’s health between washes, investing in a silk pillowcase is an excellent strategy. This simple yet effective approach minimizes friction on the hair while sleeping, resulting in reduced frizz and a smoother appearance come morning. By adopting this habit, you can enjoy healthier-looking locks without sacrificing your usual washing routine.
FACEBOOK GROUPS FOR THE CURLY GIRL METHOD
To achieve the benefits of the Curly Girl Method, it’s essential to be patient and committed to your curly hair care routine. One way to stay motivated is by connecting with like-minded individuals who share similar experiences and challenges. Joining a dedicated Facebook group focused on the CGM can provide valuable support and inspiration.
Here are some active groups you may find helpful: • Curly Girl (Method) Support Group International • The Curly Girl Method-Wavy Club • Wavy Girl Method (Official)- Wavy Hair Don’t Care • Sensible Curly People UK • United Curls (Formerly Curls Girls Uk- The Original, Following The CGM) • Naturally Curly and Wavy Hair-tips and advice
Curly Girl Method Approve Products for Different Curl Types
As I develop this comprehensive guide, I’ll be creating separate entries tailored to each curl type. The existing posts covering wavy and coily hair are great starting points, but soon you can expect an in-depth look at curly hair as well. In the meantime, I’m actively researching popular brands that have earned the coveted ‘curly girl approved’ seal of approval. This information will be incorporated into future updates to this post.
POST FROM OTHER BEAUTY BLOGS
If you’ve found our content informative or inspiring, you might also appreciate exploring the work of fellow beauty enthusiasts whose perspectives we admire. As a valued reader, we’re pleased to share some of our favorite pieces from around the web that align with our passion for empowering individuals to unlock their unique beauty potential.
NATURALLY CURLY
When embarking on the curly girl method, many women make common mistakes that can hinder their journey to achieving beautiful, bouncy curls. In fact, some individuals may even be using products that contradict the method’s core principles. Specifically, there are five key errors that wavies (women with wavy hair) tend to make when starting out. These blunders can lead to disappointment and frustration, ultimately derailing their progress.
Let’s explore these mistakes and why they’re detrimental to one’s curly girl experience.
BYRDIE
For those with naturally curly locks, finding the right products can be a game-changer. That’s why we’ve put together a review of DevaCurl products – to help you make an informed decision about which ones might work best for your unique curls. But first, let’s explore some general tips and tricks for styling and caring for naturally curly hair. We’ll also touch on the popular trend of pineapple hair and how it can benefit those with curly locks.
CURLY NIKKI
When it comes to curly hair, there are a multitude of common mistakes that can hinder its full potential. From using the wrong curl defining methods to misusing products that can do more harm than good, these errors can leave your locks lacking in definition and moisture. One of the most significant pitfalls is neglecting to identify your specific curl type. Without understanding what kind of curls you have, it’s challenging to choose the right products and techniques that work best for you.
This can lead to a buildup of product, dryness, and frizz. Another mistake many people make is using hot tools such as flat irons or blow dryers on their curly hair. Not only do these tools damage the hair shaft, but they also strip the curls of their natural moisture, leading to dryness, brittleness, and a lack of definition. Magnesium sulfate is a common ingredient in many curl-defining products.
While it can be beneficial for adding bounce and definition, excessive use can cause buildup, leading to stiffness, frizz, and even scalp irritation. Lastly, having perfect curls often requires more than just luck. Developing good habits such as using the right shampoo, conditioning regularly, and protecting your hair from heat damage are all crucial steps in achieving healthy, bouncy locks.
MANE ADDICTS
Understanding curly hair requires grasping three essential concepts, often referred to as the 3 C’s. Meanwhile, new research has shed light on the best and worst cities for curly-haired individuals. Additionally, mastering 3A hair, a specific hair type, demands a comprehensive guide. Furthermore, navigating the proper use of a diffuser can be challenging, but following do’s and don’ts ensures optimal results.
This post was a Beginner’s Guide to the Curly Girl Method
I’m thrilled that you’ve made it to the end of my beginner’s guide to the Curly Girl Method. The impact this approach has had on my natural hair is nothing short of transformative – I’ve noticed a significant increase in moisture and a newfound confidence in my curls. Now, I’d love to hear about your own experiences with the method, whether you’re navigating the world of curly locks or exploring new products for straight hair.
Please don’t hesitate to share your thoughts and insights in the comments below.
